Third part of three: To understand the TWAF phenomenon please read Part 2 first >here<
As the day moves on I proceed down the valley to Namo Gorge. Damn it! My super irritating habit of not buying something I need when walking past a shop has meant that I’ve no water at all, and at this altitude I’m seriously parched.
Just before the gorge is a beautiful tranquil flat grassy area with the river babbling nearby. Numerous water powered prayer wheels in stilted boxes quietly squeak away over yonder.
Just beyond the temple is the way on to Namo Gorge and the grove
Giving myself time to decide if I want to go any further while being this thirsty, I sit against a tree in a quiet grove trying to contain my inward annoyance. Then, out of the corner of my eye I spot a woman raise her phone up and take a snap of me from the other side of the trees. TWAF at nine o’clock! Instinctively I turn, shake my head and hold my hand up flat “No! I’ve had just enough of all that today, especially when I’m trying to chill.
Unfortunately as per usual I’ve made another glaring error of judgement; she is Tibetan along with her friends who were sitting together on the grass enjoying their day. As she sits back down they all turn to me looking really hurt.
In an attempt to vindicate myself I smile, give them the thumbs up and wave but even so the woman stands up and proceeds towards me through the grove. Head bowed, her body arched over, she suddenly looks up at me with deep hazel eyes filled with sadness. She wears a pink and blue headscarf and her dark weathered face seems to magnify the depth of her expression. Shuffling closer, she mutters prayer under her breath and then takes out a pear from a small embroidered cloth bag.
Holding it out at arm’s length she continues towards me so I spring up and meet her half way accepting the gift with a big thu chi che [tɔɔdʒe] which is my best thank you in Tibetan. Having returned to her friends they all look back around with nervousness to gauge my reaction. Holding up the pear in both hands, I say thank you again with my biggest smile and to my relief it’s met with their almost joyous reaction. Phew!
Lying back against the tree I focus on the pear. I must admit that there is a terribly negative demon that lives inside of me and right now it’s telling me to put it in my bag and save it for later. Recently though some progress has been made concerning the intrusive voices and instead I take a bite.
Rather than the hard pears you can normally buy in the shops, this one’s cold, soft and it explodes with juice all over my face and hands. Indeed it’s an instant thirst quencher of the highest order and I gorge myself, slurping on it without a second thought like a pig.
Finally, as the display of unbridled indulgence grinds to a halt I am left with, for a brief moment, an empty space free from craving and I sigh in relief. Within seconds though, a cloud envelops me as a singular deep feeling of guilt reveals itself. The exchange lingers, dancing around inside my head for the rest of the day.
Make what you like of it. The more I think about it, the more twists of meaning the episode seems to have and I’ll never forget that brief exchange that happened in the grove.
Categories: China, On the Road, Writing
Just Turn Left 
Generosity of people is often under-estimated.
In our “modern” societies we have so much fraud, IT theft, physical robberies that people have sometimes turned sceptical.
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Hiya Mel & Suan > I think for me it was that she gave me her one and only pear. I dont think she had another one in her little bag. Amazingly generous but then again I encounter a lot of that in China.
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Indeed, but probably only in the rural heartlands we think…correct us if we are wrong.
We still think people outside the cities are less corrupted by the materialism that “modernity” brings. That’s why tourism is a double edged sword. Do we want their lives to be “better” – ie have clean running water etc. Or do we want them to ‘preserve their ways of living’ – ie stay the way they are now. What do you think?
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I think in the monasteries of Langmusi there was a small ticket office at the entrance and the money went to the upkeep of the temples etc. Guesthouses and hotels allow the tourists to stay and therefore soend their money. It’s all well and good but it doesnt mean that those tourists can go around and behave badly. Back to it though and some places have been made into tourist towns and most of the money is kept buy a large company. I experienced it in Jinghong down in Xishuangbanna where a whole village had a fence put up around it so people could take photos of the local people who all looked as poor as hell. I dont think they had a better way of life. Its much worse in SE Asia like Laos and Cambodia.
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Indeed! This brings exploitation to a whole new level. Which is really disgusting. But then, we only find out when we get there. Since information is not always readily available. The net is inundated with information and sifting them out can be tedious.
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I went to a place called MaTiSi in Gansu (soon to put it on YouTube). I saw some photos on the internet and it looked remote and out there so I drove out of town for a couple of hours to get there. When I arrived to my dismay it was nothing but a tourist town. Even the temples were built for the tourists. There were cameras everywhere in the temples so you were being watched all of the time. There was one authentic temple which was falling to pieces old and no one ever went there. If is well known it will be the same as anywhere else
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Fake towns, ghost cities…woah what else will come next? LOL
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I did go to a ghost town in Cambodia once and saw a ghost 😉 Hey Mel & Suan. I’ve really enjoyed you dropping over today:: Thanks for the visits
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and thanks for the RT 😉
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Beautiful. I always think the poorest people really show love toward all of humanity. I love this story it was heartwarming. Well done.
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Thank you for your kind words Salpha. I really appreciate it. It was one of those occurrences that happened in seconds but has stayed with me. A lot happened in that single moment. Thanks again
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you have an opportunity to see China and the world around it, with a special lens, your ability to speak the language helps, there is TAO there, it blankets the Universe,and permeates your NOW
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I would like to know more about TAO. Its new to me
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Andy, One of your loveliest posts. Thanks for letting me in on this experience of kindness from a stranger. It makes me feel more hopeful at a time when I could use a glimmer of light. Clare
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Thanks Clare. I must admit that I’d been looking forward to writing this one for ages. The Tibetans just want good karma and spread kindness to everyone. I can never get enough of them 🙂 Really glad you liked it 🙂
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I truly know so little about Tibetan Culture, so this was refreshing to read. Shengdong wants to take Milanda there and I told him of your travels. He’ll definitely love this post.
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Oh yes Langmusi is the place to go and it would be lovely if he read the post. 🙂 Its a strange culture in that so many people talk about it without ever experiencing it. All I can say is that its a very uplifting feeling filled with introspection and learning.
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I’ll make sure he gets the link to your blog. There is a block on YouTube for his email account at the university, so I’m not sure how he will get to enjoy the videos.
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That’s a drag. I guess its a matter of patients in this country. Oh well hey ho.
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Yes, he is a very patient man, though. You would like him. It looks like he might have a chance to become Dean of a Confuscious Institute in Canada. Milanda and I are very excited about the prospect of seeing each other again if this does come to be.
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Wowow That does sound exciting. Its not every day you meet someone with such a title. China misses you Clare X
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They would love me to come and visit. Shengdong has suggested I apply for a Fulbright to teach for a semester. But, I am pretty settled where I am and don’t have your wanderlust. I’m happy there’s a chance of them coming to Canada. I’ll certainly visit them in Nova Scotia (probably not in the winter, though.) Have you heard of the Confucius Institutes?
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Yes deffo turn the tables and get them over into your yard 🙂 Wonderful idea
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You know if I ever do get to China, I’m looking you up!
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Hell yeh! That would be amaaaaazing Clare 🙂
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I’m not sure China is ready for the two of us yet?????
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Yes!
World is a lovely place
and most beautiful thing is—-there are beautiful hearts too.
Hiya Andy!
Happy New Year in advance : )
hope u r fine.
stay happy
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Heeeeey Jyotee. So great of you to drop by. Yes and it’s always the gestures from the beautiful heart that we remember the most. Happy New Year back to you and the best of amazing luck in 2017 🙂
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Thank you Andy
https:// paxetdolor.wordpress.com
This is a link to our ezine.
You will have to contribute : p
Anything !!
previously posted / jus anything…..photography….poetey…… Sigh!
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Hiya Jyotee. I followed that website but how do I post something on it?
LikeLike
https://paxetdolor.wordpress.com
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You must have looked so darn cute or were one of those moments of unspeakable beauty?!! always love the way you document your feelings, the burst of indignation, the righteous stance and then slowly the mellowing down and finally the soft teddy bear forgiveness.
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I still remember that feeling even now. Maybe that’s the beauty of writing about something
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and we are blessed to be part of your journey – or anyone who chooses to share their story – truly its just as rewarding to the writer to come back to his story after sometime and see what paths they have traveled and places they have been.
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Thanks Singledust. I think the next few posts are my most memorable. Watch this space 🙂
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will do sir!
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